In my younger days, I use to hang out with a guy who was a professional surfer. He travelled, but did most of his surfing closer to home near the Outer Banks of North Carolina. However, I never saw him pull this kind of wave riding off.
In a video that has received nearly a quarter of a million views, surfer Jamie O’Brien catches a wave and proceeds to ride it effortlessly.
As he stands up on the board, he reveals he is actually holding a second surfboard and proceeds to surf, eventually putting the second board down and transferring himself to it for the remainder of the ride.
Sadly, he gets wiped out at the very end.
Another video shows his attempts at perfecting this board switch. Over the course of a minute and a half, O’Brien makes several attempts to successfully make the transfer and ride out the wave. Up until the end, he does make a successful transfer, but fails to beat the collapse of the wave on him.
Finally, his persistence pays off, and he not only switches boards successfully, but also rides completely through the rip curl.
Like anything we engage in in life, we must not give up and we must not quit. The Scriptures speak of this when they exhort us to follow hard after God, to persevere and to not look back.
Only be strong and very courageous, that you may observe to do according to all the law which Moses My servant commanded you; do not turn from it to the right hand or to the left, that you may prosper wherever you go. –Joshua 1:7
I press toward the mark for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ Jesus. –Philippians 3:14
Let us not become weary in doing good, for at the proper time we will reap a harvest if we do not give up. –Galatians 6:9
Blessed is the man who perseveres under trial, because when he has stood the test, he will receive the crown of life that God has promised to those who love him. –James 1:12
Pretty exciting stuff to watch. Enjoy!